The Art of Developing Active Aggression
The techniques being described in this article have been developed during the course of over
two decades of hands on experience, working hundreds of dogs, listening to, watching and
training with some of the top working dog trainers our industry has ever known. They all
deserve recognition for their contribution to the evolution of dog training as we know it
today. Some of the people who have had the greatest influence and impact on my education
as it relates to aggression work and drive manipulation are; John Rodriguez, Ed Nurse, Dean
Calderon, Dr. Helmut Raiser, Mike Lorraine and Greg Doud to name a few. I am forever
indebted to the people who have entrusted me to work their pets, protection dogs, sport dogs
and K-9 partner’s over the years. Without these people providing me the forum in which to
practically apply the things I was taught, the theories could have never evolved into
successful techniques. My utmost appreciation is directed towards the dogs themselves. From
the subtle ear twitch and tail wag, to instantly educating some bad timing by leaving me
bloodied, every single dog has taught me through their non-verbal song. I haven’t invented
these techniques, only compiled them and composed a method. I have also been fortunate
enough to work with the right people, been able keep an open mind and ear, along with
choosing a profession which has provided the opportunities to apply theses techniques in the
real world, with sustained success. My eternal attraction to dog training is derived from the
glorious struggle of climbing a mountain of knowledge for which there is no plateau. There is
always more to learn and I hope someone can benefit from this method, digest it and catapult
it into another level.
Active aggression:
The goal of this method is to arm the animal with a powerful tool which can be utilized to not
only defeat, overpower, intimidate and apprehend a threat in a real world confrontation but
also to instigate activity in a passive target, through what I refer to as active aggression. I
define “Active Aggression” as forward, animated, offensive offerings by the dog which can be
shown through, but not limited to; erect and dominant body posture, eye contact, a desire to
advance towards the target, combined with strong, convincing, repetitive, powerful barking.
Restriction from a leash can alter these behaviors but the intent of the animal remains the
same. These behaviors are all initiated by the dog, not a reaction provoked by an outward
movement or stimulus created by the decoy or target. Initiating a fight with a passive target
and creating activation is the desired response from the dog when placed in these situations.
Although this article’s main focus is for Police K-9 training, this method can benefit sport dogs
and personal protection dogs as well. Many dogs don’t have the genetic potential to produce
these behaviors. This is why the selection process is crucial to the success of the team and
achieving their ultimate goal. However; I have had success enhancing the confidence of
weaker dogs in the sport world or working in other applications through “Boogie Man” work.
This method, when applied correctly with perfect timing, can greatly enhance the dog’s
confidence, harden nerves, bolster awareness, and raise the bar of the dog’s genetic
potential. There are several key steps to follow in order to produce a dog who will display
active aggression which is reliable and purposeful, even on the most passive of potential
threats. The dog must believe, through his own self-initiated effort, he/she can cause a fight
to start and their aggression is the key to winning.
Comfort Zone:
In order to invoke feelings in the dog which will ultimately produce active aggression,
controlled conflict must be brought into their world which can elicit Fight, flight or freeze
responses. The animal must perceive a real confrontation in order to elicit predatory
reactions to which we can build upon. This is extremely delicate work because we are placing
the animal in a very vulnerable state. In the early stages of Boogie Man, the confrontation is
less intrusive and getting the Boogie Man to retreat happens with the slightest offensive
behaviors displayed from the dog. A less experienced decoy can participate at this level due
to his greater distance away from the dog. As this technique progresses, the Boogie Man
becomes much more of a threat and formidable opponent. Having a decoy that has a deep
understanding of dog behavior and drive channeling/manipulation is crucial. Flight obviously
is the least desirable of the three responses we want to see from the dog. Restricting the
option of flight can result in advancing towards the ultimate goal but prolonged duration in
this mode would suggest this would be the wrong animal for this task. The secret behind the
success of this technique is how the decoy responds, rewards and alleviates the conflict at
precisely the right moment. This decoy’s role and responsibility is discussed at length in the
next chapter. Environmental factors play a crucial role in taking dog out of their comfort
zone and producing uncertainty. The uncertainty and insecurity is what forces the dog to
switch gears into predatory aggression mode, tapping into “survival” feelings. This technique
is ideally done in darker, low-light areas such as alley ways, business parks, and industrial
plazas. Wooded areas can also be utilized but generally speaking, most dogs feel more “at
home” in the woods. In the beginning, you do not want any connections to a training field.
Many IPO/Ring/PSA dogs have the genetic potential for this type of work, but it will never be
revealed in a sport setting. In the presence of a prey stimulus or other equipment cues (suit,
sleeves, jumps, blinds etc..) the dogs are programmed, comfortable and imprinted for a
“sparring match” not real world aggression. It is essential we remove the animal from its
comfort zone and eliminate equipment cues in order to get them out of balance. Selecting a
location the dog has never been is a priority to achieve the aforementioned. This will avoid
any territorial reactions through familiarization. This exercise takes a few seconds, there is no
equipment needed by the decoy and it pays tremendous dividends for such a small
investment. I have my handlers take all equipment off of the dog except a choke chain or fur
saver. I don’t want to activate the dog with equipment cues for working. I want the dog to
believe they are just getting let out of the car for a bathroom break. The leash must be
secure but the handler must convey a very relaxed, nonchalant picture to the dog. I
recommend using a six foot leash and allowing the dog to have the entire leash to roam and
explore in a casual manner. Reeling in and letting out leash in an abstract manner can affect
the dog’s behavior and choices. The dog must visually acquire the decoy with no influence
from the handler and at this point in the process, I don’t want the wind in the dogs face to
make any scent associations. Pairing the scent of the Boogie Man happens later in the game.
This mission is self-discovery on the dog’s part. The decoy is pre-set at a location so the dog
cannot acquire his scent, upwind. This exercise is set up as only a visual one in the begging,
later we attach a scent picture to the encounter. The decoy is dressed in attire which is non-
training specific. In contrast, the decoy is wearing the most bizarre clothing or costume they
can find. Halloween masks are always a solid choice for changing the “picture” for the dog
and also injecting some humor into the training environment for the handlers. It makes for
great training and great camaraderie amongst the troops. The decoy is in low-light, mostly
concealed and lying in a low or prone position, always maintaining eye contact with the dog.
This is crucial not only for the decoy to analyze the animal’s behavior to add and subtract
pressure in order to create a reward but also for safety reasons should there be an equipment
failure or human error. You want to be hidden under debris, brush, boxes, pallets, darker
shadows, wearing ghillie suit or any item(s) which provide concealment but also allow the
decoy to maneuver without too much limitation. Ideally we want the dog to first become
aware of the decoys presence from a good distance away. Close enough for the dog to realize
something “odd” is in his environment, to which he must pay attention, but not too close to
cause avoidance. Too far is always manageable and can be corrected as opposed to being too
close and causing a serious avoidance. Always err on the side of caution. Taking baby steps
towards advancing to your goals is always advisable in any phase of training.
Handlers Perspective & Responsibilities:
During the first few repetitions, there will come a moment when the dog has recognized the
decoy and a clear and defined behavior change will occur. There a myriad of physical
characteristics and behavior traits a dog can exhibit when confronted by a real world conflict
in which they perceive as a potential threat. They are categorized in three common traits
which can be juxtaposed with one another as the threat escalates and deescalates. They are
fight, flight and freeze. When applying this technique to brand new dogs, freeze is probably
the most common behavior the dog will demonstrate. This gives the appearance of the dog
being momentarily suspended in time, balancing on a tight rope of nerve and self-
preservation as they are processing their environment. In this moment, he has choices and
this is where we see the raw character of the dog. At the point of recognition, the handler
should take in whatever slack may be in the line. It should not be done in a way which is a
quick pull simulating a correction, but a slow, methodical retracting. This will tap into some
opposition-reflex, giving a greater likelihood of forward activation and aggression. This will
also give the dog an enhanced sensation of pack drive being solidified, making them more
confidence as the handler has gotten closer to the dog. The handler is to remain silent, giving
no verbal or physical praise. This is a conflict the dog must resolve through his own
aggression, not handler induced. Once the dog realizes the decoy is a risk factor, he may give
a low growl, lean into the collar, bark, spin, sniff the ground, look for an escape route, try
backing out of the collar…etc. The handler must try to keep the dog’s focal point towards the
decoy if there is avoidance. You might have to trap the dog between your legs and apply
pressure with your inner thighs in order to maintain them in this position. You may have to
employ this handling technique for over animated dogs or ones who like to spin. You cannot
accurately predict how a dog will behave. I have seen dogs who are very strong in other forms
of training have issues, in contrast, I’ve seen dogs who lack drive in some areas of training
show very strong in this game. You won’t know until you’ve placed the dog into this position.
The low growl, lean into the collar, barking and any other form of forward aggression should
be immediately rewarded by the decoy by getting up from his lowered position and takeoff
running in a 45 degree angle away from the dog. Some screaming from the decoy can add to
the effect of fear being induced and cracking a whip can enhance the dogs drive and
frustration associated with the moment. The understanding we want to create in the dogs
mind is when placed in a confrontation, active aggression will result in the threat becoming
prey. A process known as “drive channeling”. As the decoy is running away from the dog at a
great distance, I allow the dog to conduct a short pursuit or “push” towards the decoy, with
tension on the leash. This continues only for a short distance and once the decoy is out of
sight, I disengage the “push” and I allow the dog to investigate the area where the decoy was
originally hiding. This is where we create a scent association to the exercise. The dog will
switch gears from a visual game to a nose game and deep learning will take place. The dog
will begin to sniff the ground, vegetation, or whatever material the decoy came in contact
with. This is the key to building strong dogs in Boogie Man work and in the real world; the dog
has caused great fear in its opponent through their active aggression. This will soon empower
the animal to display active aggression faster and faster as a form of conflict resolution every
time the opportunity presents itself. The team training the dog must collectively conclude
the dog is ready to handle more pressure from the Boogie Man. A telltale sign the dog is ready
for more is evident in the way the dog comes out of the car. He comes out of the car with a
greater purpose, looking to pick a fight. The feedback I get from handlers new to this
technique is “I can’t even get him to take a bathroom break when I get him out of the
car….all he (the dog) wants to do is find the Boogie Man. The dogs get addicted to the game.
As a handler, the process doesn’t change much. They are to provide safe handling, paired with
solid timing when the dog is rewarded and the pursuit takes place.
The Reward:
Traditional dog training lends itself towards the idea there must be a tangible reward in order
to increase the likelihood of the behavior reoccurring (bite, ball, tug, food…etc) Modern dog
training speaks of the behavior itself becoming the reward. It is very evident through the
progression of “Boogie Man” the actual behavior itself becomes extremely rewarding, self-
gratifying, confidence building and a situation they look forward to more and more. The
action of intense barking displayed through forward aggression which causes activation,
flushing and ultimately flight of a target is so rewarding for the dog, they actively seek these
moments as soon as their paws hit the ground. On very few occasions, I will give the dog a
reward bite on a prosthetic arm/leg to which they are manually removed, never a slip and
carry away. On occasion, I will use a muzzle to add physical contact to the exercise, as long
as the dog is properly conditioned and desensitized to the muzzle. This simple exercise makes
such a vigilant patrol dog, who craves the next fight. It also prepares his nervous system for
the most intense, chaotic, stressful and violent encounters.
Decoy’s role & responsibility:
In all phases of aggression training, a skilled, knowledgeable decoy is worth their weight in
gold! Although there is very little physical contact with the decoy and the dog in this method,
the timing of when to add and subtract pressure is even more crucial due to the dogs being on
edge with a lowered threshold and in a vulnerable state. Pressing a dog too much can cause
irreversible damage, placing a very negative stigma on this situation. When I train new decoys
in this technique, I have them hold an Ecollar which is set on vibration. When I see or the
handler see’s that critical moment when pressure should be released and the Boogie Man
should run, the handler or I can communicate with the decoy instantly, non-verbally by
vibrating the Ecollar. This gives us a much greater likelihood of perfect timing and success
without having to announce it to the decoy creating another cue for the dog which will cloud
the learning process. It is essential the animal learns his active aggression causes surrender,
retreat and flight in the threat. Especially in the early stages, there are extremely subtle
behavioral changes from the dog the decoy might not be aware of due the darkness,
concealment limiting vision or distance from the dog. In the first few repetitions of this work
we might not get a barking reaction from some higher threshold dogs or dogs in deeper
avoidance who are giving no behaviors to reward. I may reward perked ears, glaring eyes, a
low growl, one step towards the decoy or any slight offensive offering by the dog, many of
which can’t be detected by the decoy. The Ecollar being held by the decoy is a great
communication tool between the instructor, handler and student without ever adding an
audible signal.
I’m reiterating the delicate, impressionable state the dog is in several times throughout this
article to add emphasis on taking your time on building small, rewarding increments while
advancing towards your ultimate goal. Go slow, start at great distances and allow the dog to
dictate the pace at which you gradually implement more and more pressure. If done
correctly, what we once perceived as pressure to the dog, will actually become a cue for
dominance, aggression and a predatory concurring of the dog’s environment. A moment they
enjoy and seek to create over and over.
Identifying Drives & Mood:
As mentioned previously, it takes many years of training dogs as a handler and as a decoy to
have a solid working knowledge of identifying drives, more importantly, how to safely
manipulate them. Watching how dogs interact socially and analyzing the intricate, non-verbal
communication process which takes place amongst them is fascinating and crucial to a
trainer’s education. There are four basic drives we operate within this specific technique and
each drive has a specific goal to be reached in order for that drive to be satisfied. They are;
Prey, Defense, Fight, Pack and I will provide a very brief description of each. These drives can
be described in depth as they are vast and at times, not clearly defined. Theses drives can
have subsections, varying degrees and even intertwine at times. A whole article or seminar for
that matter can be solely dedicated identifying drives, what triggers them and analyzing the
body language and behavior patterns associated with each.
Prey Drive:
A stimulus to which the dog perceives as desirable and wants to engage for
the purposes of hunting, pursuing, catching, biting, shaking and killing. This drive can be
enhanced by the prey stimulus activating and moving away from the dog. This drive creates
an extremely positive mood in the dog and is an optimal drive. The tone and pitch of a dogs
barking is generally a good indication of what gear they are in. However; this is not an
absolute.
Defense Drive:
An insecure mood in which the dog displays behaviors of nervous
aggression, due to the dog wants the threat to go away. This is not an optimal drive for any
dog to work in. This drive can be displayed in the early stages of this work but with sound
genetics and solid training, it can be switched to a more offensive outcome. This term gets
tossed around in many circles of training and can mean different things to different people.
This is just my interpretation.
Fight Drive:
This drive and its actual existence has been debated and disputed since the
beginning of time. I wholeheartedly believe it not only exists ,it thrives in an experienced
patrol dog. It’s my personal opinion fight drive can only truly evolve in dogs that have
successfully hunted humans and engaged in violent encounters with them on a regular basis.
It is truly an offensive, predatory state that encompasses the high mood of prey but is
immersed in the power of real world aggression. It embodies the physical characteristics of
desperation to locate the battle and win. I don’t believe this drive can evolve and mature in a
sport setting as the components of real world violence are absent.
I’m going to provide some examples of how the decoy can address the different behavioral
responses from the dog. This is an ever-evolving, fluid training exercise which can take many
twists and turns, hinging on an acute body language communication process. There is no
substitute for experience and a vast knowledge of canine behavior. We must understand that
there will be a dynamic, non-verbal dialog going on between the decoy and the dog, with the
decoy being tasked with capturing the very precise moment when to submit to the dog,
relieve pressure and flee.
Dog’s response:
1) Flight: The handler must restrict the dogs movement, keeping him focused on the
decoy. The decoy can remain in a lower posture to minimize stress on the dog,
simultaneously crawling in 45 degree angles towards the dog, always bladed away. The
decoy must move slowly and suspiciously almost as if a Komodo Dragon was stalking its
prey. Moving slow also insures the decoy doesn’t become perceived as prey to the dog.
At the very first sign of the dog holding its ground or more favorably advancing
towards the threat, the decoy can get up and run the opposite direction. Once they
realize flight isn’t an option, we want to see the dog switch gears and attempt to
defend itself. In some extreme case of avoidance or extremely high threshold dogs,
closer physical contact may be required. As noted previously, flight is not an option
you want the dog to consider and remaining in this realm one should choose another
occupation for the dog
2) Freeze: This is the most common response from dogs in the first few sessions of
Boogie Man. The decoy can implement the same protocol as the beginning portion of
the “Flight” segment but eventually standing up on their feet. Moving slowly at a 45
degree angle from the dog, eyes looking away, shoulders bladed away and gaining
ground on the dog ever so slightly. The dog may remain in a fixed position, processing
your movement, actions and body language. They are in this mind set because they
realize something in their environment is abnormal and requires their attention but
haven’t decided how to respond. In this situation, I will show the dog a frontal view of
the decoy, still at a great distance to avoid overwhelming the dog. If the decoy
receives no reaction, they should attempt to make themselves look bigger by raising
up higher in their posture and expanding their arms slowly out to the side, while
continuing to advance. In the dog’s world, making themselves appear larger with a
higher head, inflated stance and raised hackles is a very common trait displayed
during social aggression. A picture which is very familiar and very clear to them you
mean business. As with in every phase of this work, when the dog has overcome the
conflict and displayed active aggression, the decoy must discontinue the pressure,
submit and turn into a prey object by running away.
3) Fight: This is the ultimate drive goal we hope to obtain and maintain. This is the
basis for active aggression. The dog is in the most confident state, dragging you from
the car and looking for the Boogie Man so he can pick a fight. As this game progress
the Boogie Man isn’t so easily scarred off and will press the dog more and more. The
decoy must project the image to the dog he is there to hunt, stalk and kill to create
the realism necessary to harden the dog . I will also conduct scenarios where the
decoy remains prone and completely still. The reward for active aggression is allowing
to dog to advance down rage in separate increments. For example; The decoy is 50
yards away almost completely covered in a tarp, with only his face exposed but
covered in a bizarre Halloween mask. The dog initiates the game through active,
convincing aggression. His reward is to quickly advance down range towards the decoy
with the handler commanding the bite. The team travels about 10-15 yards and comes
to a stop. Most dogs will become silent while in pursuit, giving the opportunity to
create several reps. Once the dog stops, the game begins again and the dog must
initiate the activity by producing active aggression in order to keep advancing. This
process continues, with several reps until they are in close quarters with the passive
decoy. This will put the dog in an intense state of drive and he can be rewarded with
flight by the decoy. A muzzle can be utilized to get the dog to throw the first punch
and bring the decoy to life. A series of giving and taking away pressure can occur
within the same session, while the decoy continues to gain ground on the dog. This
happens as the decoy shows the dog a frontal picture igniting conflict by squaring the
shoulders directly towards the dog, intensifying eye contact, deeper breathing and an
inflated posture. When the desired level of aggression is shown, the decoy can blade
the shoulders away and slowly move at diagonals towards the ground. This relieves
the pressure momentarily, confirms to the dog his aggression worked but the decoy
closing ground keeps the stakes high. The idea is to slowly inject more and more
pressure into the equation; all the while the dog holds the answers to the test by
bringing more and more active aggression.
4) Pack Drive: The dog has a natural desire to assimilate into a pack with a clear and
defined hierarchy. When this nucleus is well established and harmonious, it enhances
the dog’s nerves, mood, drive and confidence, giving them a greater likelihood of
reaching their genetic potential.
Throughout a Police K-9’s career, a large majority of their apprehensions take place without a
bite. The dog’s mere presence can alter a criminals mind to stop active resistance. A natural
fear of dogs potentially causing a suspect to surrender is greatly enhanced by a dog who is
demonstrating controlled, purposeful, active aggression in the form of intense and convincing
barking directed at the target. Common dog training theory 101 would suggest there isn’t a
reward. This method installs a reward system the dog builds upon in the real world as bad
guys are placed into custody, hand cuffed and escorted into a patrol car.
In closing, as with any training technique, it is much easier to demonstrate it in-person than
to explain it in written text. There are many nuances to this technique to insure its success
and every dog has a different perception of their environment which is molded by their
raising, training and genetic blue print. Of all the techniques we utilize to train and prepare
our patrol dogs for the real world, Boogie Man is hands down the most beneficial and practical
of all.
